Something-for-everyone restaurant Colorado leaves diners cold

Yet just as I began to compose a long and woeful lament on the chef's inexplicable indifference to my yearning palate, our charming waiter presented the grilled salmon. This moist fillet, cooked precisely medium-rare and drizzled with a delicate soy glaze, was tucked into a bowl of deliciously fragrant, ginger-spiked rice. Enhanced by a sprinkling of scallion and black sesame seed, this well-balanced dish revived my flagging spirits. I was moved to recall fondly the flank-steak sandwich I'd sampled at lunch. A filling tucker of flavorful beef, grilled vegetables and gooey cheese, it would have been a perfect belly-bomb had the bottom slice of bread not all but disintegrated in the au jus. Perhaps, I mused, gazing at all our half-eaten food, we'd just ordered the wrong stuff.

But alas, the porterhouse steak renewed the onslaught on our delicate sensibilities. Dry, fibrous and sinewy, it failed to distract even Woofer, whose beef-loving ways know even fewer bounds than his guitar playing. If this was typical of Colorado cooking, no wonder the much-maligned Rocky Mountain cannibal Alferd Packer opted to eat his friends.

COLORADO, 3761 Laclede, 652-3044. Hours: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fri. and Sat.; 5:30-9 p.m. Sun. Entrees: $8.95-$15.50.

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