Lorenzo's Toil

Dishing the latest addition to the Hill's restaurant menu

Even the house salad that comes with all entrees deserves special mention -- it's a sizable, diverse collection of field greens, dressed with balsamic vinaigrette and highlighted by shredded Asiago cheese, crisped prosciutto and pistachios.

The dessert list is short and filled with Italian standards -- tiramisu, spumoni, cannoli, ricotta cheesecake and an Italian variation on crème brûlée -- and main portions are so large that even with our hefty appetites, we only found room to try one. The tiramisu is a faithful rendering of the classic: espresso-soaked ladyfingers layered with mascarpone cheese, not overly sweet and featuring generous utilization of both the cheese and the chocolate.

Roughly 50 wines are available in bottles; most are Italian reds, with prices ranging from approximately $20-$60. Almost two dozen are available by the glass.

Owner Larry Fuse Jr. (left) and manager Joe Dougherty, of Lorenzo's Trattoria, present a style that falls in the somewhat neglected middle ground, for the Hill, between mama-and-papa spaghetti house and jacket-and-tie white linen.
Jennifer Silverberg
Owner Larry Fuse Jr. (left) and manager Joe Dougherty, of Lorenzo's Trattoria, present a style that falls in the somewhat neglected middle ground, for the Hill, between mama-and-papa spaghetti house and jacket-and-tie white linen.

Location Info

Map

Lorenzo's Trattoria

1933 Edwards St.
St. Louis, MO 63110

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: St. Louis - The Hill

We witnessed some interesting social phenomena during our visits. For one thing, the place appears to be a lightning rod for Jesuit priests (not that I have J-dar or anything; I knew two of them from a past life and overheard the third introducing himself to one that I already knew) -- the renowned president of the local Jesuit university even made a newly svelte appearance, leading me to wonder, given the huge portions available, whether he might soon emerge as one of the new spokespersons for Bodyshaper.

But even more intriguing was the older gentleman who showed up with what appeared to be a wife and daughter and subsequently left the table to take both his aperitif and his after-dinner drink at the bar, a reminder of a much more genteel time.

Lorenzo's and owner Fuse, on the other hand, definitely have an eye toward an innovative and profitable future. Run over to Milo's if you're looking for a bocce game, and look elsewhere for a plate of linguine with clam sauce, but head for the Hill and this new restaurant if you've been searching for a new and different variation on Italian.

LORENZO'S TRATTORIA, 1933 Edwards (the Hill), 773-2223. Pastas: $10.50-$13.50. Entrees: $14.95-$18.95. Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon-Fri.; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-11 p.m. Sat.

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