North and South

Goin' to N'Orleans, by way of I-270

About that TV set: When cranked up, it really detracts from the atmosphere. It appeared that the N'Orleans does a significant carry-out business in addition to its sit-down trade, and perhaps the TV is intended to keep the in-and-out folks occupied while they wait. But it was definitely a distraction, and it added nothing to the illusion that one was in proximity to a streetcar named Desire, be it at a dinner club or a "dive."

Nonetheless, the Jameses and their staff were over-the-top friendly, and I daresay I'd watch a lot of too-loud bad TV for the opportunity to eat Kevin's cooking.

N'ORLEANS CAFE, 4005 Seven Hills Dr. (Florissant), 314-831-8810. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tue.-Thu., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri. & Sat., noon-5 p.m. Sun. Entrees: $7.50-$15.99

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