Best Scrambled Tofu

It's Sunday morning, and once again your thoughts drift fondly toward soy products. The media is swamped with reports of how this wunderbean prevents or alleviates practically any malady against which it is pitted, and you've been meaning to crank up your personal intake to the recommended "three servings a day" (whatever that is). But there's a small problem with soybeans: They taste like soybeans. That's why we suggest you consume them in the form of Patrice Mari's scrambled tofu. A staple of her vegetarian Sunday brunch at MoKaBe's, which is coincidentally one of the city's best coffeehouses, Patrice's chefly treatment of the venerable soja curd turns something that's good for you into something you can look forward to all week. She offers two varieties: for the vegans, an impeccably seasoned mixture with tomato and scallion, and for the rest of you, the richer "Mediterranean" style, sassed up with spinach, Parmesan and sun-dried tomato. Get a scoop of each, wash 'em down with a soy-milk "latté," and you just may have prevented a day's worth of colon cancer, hot flashes, osteoporosis and male-pattern baldness.