Admit it. You've gone to White Castle more than once in your life. You love those little bits of ... meat, right? Part of the joy of downing a bunch of White Castles is the hint of illicitness involved. This is not a real meal; it's a quick fix, a temporary desertion of all you know about nutrition and health. White Castles even look a little sordid. They're all small, with tiny minimalist booths and not much else inside. Except in Collinsville, Ill. There, nestled in a clump of motels and tourist restaurants, sits the White Castle de resistance. It is the über-Castle, a large, clean, beautiful eatery, with luxurious vinyl booths; shiny, fanciful hanging lights; a big floor-to-ceiling bay window opening up the greenery of the outside world to view; and a recessed ceiling in the center of the room that gives an expansive feel to the décor. This is a White Castle to which to take a date, in which to conduct a business lunch or gather with old friends. We don't know why this White Castle is so much more elaborate than others. We don't even know for sure if there are any other White Castles with this much care taken in appearances. We do know that the White Castle in Collinsville is the one we turn to when we crave more than just a plain old belly-bomber. This is where we go when we also crave elegance.