Send in the Marinos

Longtime Pasta House man Tony Marino opens up his own place in Ballwin

As with the main menu (which, in addition to the items we tried, includes several more pastas and three risottos, as well as an almost-two-pound beef-rib chop among the meat choices and a couple of fish selections), the made-on-the-premises desserts include standards like cannoli and crème brulée but also venture into seldom-found delicacies, such as a poached pear with toffee sauce. This turned out to be a real treat -- an ultraripe pear whose sweetness was concentrated by the poaching process, with the sauce contributing a candy-apple type of finish.

Tony Marino's new Ballwin restaurant is part steak-and-chop house, part Italian.
Jennifer Silverberg
Tony Marino's new Ballwin restaurant is part steak-and-chop house, part Italian.

Location Info

Map

Eau Bistro

212 S. Kingshighway Blvd
St. Louis, MO 63108

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Central West End

Trattoria Marcella

3600 Watson Road
St. Louis, MO 63109

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: St. Louis - St. Louis Hills

Details

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tue.-Fri.,
4-10 p.m. Sat.,
4-9 p.m. Sun.
Call 636-227-4800

Selected menu items:
Portobello Wellington $7.95
Sea scallops $7.95
Maple-leaf duck breast $14.95
Prime rib $15.95
Homemade ravioli $10.95

15037 Manchester Rd.

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We'd like to attribute the weak performance on the one visit to a holiday meltdown, which can happen to the best of us. And, after all, even with only a few months under its belt, the place was full (as it had been, by the way, on our first visit), so Mr. Marino has obviously maintained a significant fan club. But to maintain that level of popularity, the restaurant needs to tighten up on attention to detail.

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