Lotsa Matzo

After a tour of St. Louis' finest, our reviewer knows from deli

The first two evenings of Passover feature ceremonial meals called Seders, and Pumpernickle's serves special dishes for the occasion, including carrot-and-sweet-potato tzimmes (a casserole sweetened with honey and spiced with cinnamon), gefilte fish (quenelles of fish forcemeat suspended in a gelatinous fish stock) and honey cake. The restaurant also has an extensive breakfast menu with table service, but for that meal we moved on to Kopperman's.

In business since 1897, Kopperman's is a deli, restaurant and wine shop. Breakfast is offered all day, so we began our late-afternoon meal with cheese blintzes (crêpelike rounds daubed with farmer's cheese and folded into puffy envelopes), sour cream and strawberry preserves. We sampled but didn't finish a peppery latke, or potato pancake, oozing with oil. We did polish off its delightful accompaniment, a finely puréed house-made applesauce laced with cinnamon. Finally we sank our teeth into a toasted bagel smeared with cream cheese and piled with smoked Idaho trout, tomato and red onions.

After our satisfying breakfast, we ogled Kopperman's deli case. The food on display is more cosmopolitan than the fare at Protzel's and Pumpernickle's. Nevertheless, Kopperman's ordinary items are among the most fetching. We took home a succulent row of fatty, peppery baby back ribs, gently seasoned with a dry rub of garlic and spices, and a scoop of the deli's special egg salad, a simple mixture of roughly chopped hard-boiled eggs, diced celery and mayonnaise.

The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.
The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine.

Location Info

Map

Protzel's Delicatessen

7608 Wydown Blvd.
Clayton, MO 63105

Category: Restaurant > Deli

Region: Clayton

Details

Protzel's Delicatessen - 7608 Wydown Blvd.
314-721-4445. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Tue.-Sat., 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon.

Kopperman's Delicatessen - 386 N. Euclid Ave.
314-361-0100. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.

Pumpernickle's Real Deli - 11036 Olive Blvd. (Creve Coeur)
314-567-4496. Hours: restaurant, 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tue.-Sat., 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sun.; deli, 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Tue.-Sat., 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.; closed Mon.

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The international spread at Kopperman's reflects multicultural influences on Jewish cuisine. You can find kosher lamb curry on the buffet line at a bar mitzvah, watch the chef roll kosher sushi at a Japanese restaurant and download kosher Ethiopian recipes from the Web. You can even book a kosher safari or have fresh kosher bison steaks delivered to you overnight. But despite all the sophisticated choices, perhaps at this very moment there's a Sioux in South Dakota with a hankering for old-fashioned kosher corned beef on rye.

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