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Diners who value consistency and approachability over novelty and depth of flavor will enjoy the Seven Gables Inn

Comments (0) By Melissa Martin Wednesday, Aug 1 2001

...continued from page 1

Jennifer Silverberg

Diners who value consistency and approachability over novelty and depth of flavor will enjoy the Seven Gables Inn.

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Seven Gables Inn

26 N. Meramec Ave.
Clayton, MO 63105

Category: Hotels/Resorts

Region: Clayton

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Blackened grouper $19.95
Blackened-shrimp cocktail $9.95
Linguini marinara $18.95
Veal saltimbocca $14.95
Chicken Bozada $13
Jumbo lump-crab cakes $8.95

314-863-8400. Hours: lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. daily; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 5-11 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; brunch, 8 a.m-2 p.m. Sun.

26 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton

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The restaurant's service, prompt but not polished, left an equally bland impression. Our servers did not rush us, which we appreciated. One young woman, however, whipped through her unpracticed spiel like a nervous understudy, forgetting to mention the soup of the day, the risotto selection, the bread-pudding flavor and other details. Another server was more deliberate and seemed to be better rehearsed. Still, during both dinners we found ourselves without such basics as bread, napkins and proper utensils. Wines available by the glass are printed only on a chalkboard next to the bar, an area that is out of diners' view. When we inquired about the wines, our servers reeled off the trendy choices, such as merlot, but not the more interesting ones, such as syrah and Riesling.

The restaurant offers three pleasant seating spaces: the patio, the formal dining room and the "French country" piano lounge next to the bar. We don't quite understand the point of the latter in an Italian restaurant, but the wingback chairs, low-slung sofas, beamed ceiling and fresh flowers make for a comfortable -- if not chic -- space. And that might suit you just fine.