The first martini was distilled London gin with a whisper of dry vermouth. Today, it's anybody's guess. The mark of a good martini: chilled and icy, with a shimmer of freeze on top. For the best martini in town, ask bartender Tim Flachsbart at Kirk's American Bistro & Bar in the Central West End. The Suzanne Sugarbaker and Jackie-O can't be beat. Kirk's martini menu lists dozens of concoctions -- or ask Tim to mix a little of this, a little of that, and, a few glasses later, you've got your own invention. Another confirmation that Kirk's is tops: The Martini Club of Greater St. Louis meets there regularly.