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Best Raw-Fish Sculptor

Kenji-san, Sansui

Comments (0) Wednesday, Sep 26 2001

The given name for it is usuzukuri, and you won't find it on the menu at Sansui, the Central West End Japanese restaurant where master sushi chef Kenji works his magic. Nonetheless, this plate full of razor-thin slices of raw halibut served with grated radish, finely sliced scallions and the citrus-flavored soy sauce called ponzuis usually a wonder to behold, especially when Kenji-san isn't terribly overworked or rushed and has time to form one or more of the slices into dainty little white flower buds.

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