I was a bit disappointed with the house special, pan-fried noodles -- not as much with the noodles as with the overly fishy taste of the carved squid that was served with pork, shrimp, mushrooms and pak choy atop it. On the other hand, the spicy sour cabbage appetizer was an unexpected treat -- it was a little like Korean kimchee in that a marinade packed a heated punch, but it also held a combination of sweetness and sourness that almost insinuated a Germanic influence.
Although a liquor license was recently awarded, no alcohol was available when we visited, so we gladly tested several of the smoothies and freezes, which were made to order, judging from the sound of the blender from the bar area. These are the ultimate "play with your food" drinks, with marble-sized spheres of tapioca at the bottom of fruit drinks and some colors that don't occur in nature (the bright lavender in the taro smoothie, for one). With both these and the "grass jelly" drinks, half the fun is finding texture where you might have expected just plain liquid.
8116 Olive Blvd.
University City, MO 63130
Category: Restaurant > Chinese
Region: University City
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314-567-9997; Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.
For sheer variety alone, Wonton King is worth a look, although it may take several visits to develop your own list of treasures.
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