Brotherly Love

In naming I Fratellini for her sons, Zoë Robinson pays them glowing tribute

Comments (0) By Melissa Martin Wednesday, Jan 16 2002

...continued from page 1

Jennifer Silverberg

I Fratellini's first menu is composed of dishes from both northern and southern Italy.

Location Info

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I Fratellini

7624 Wydown Blvd.
Clayton, MO 63105

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Clayton

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Details

Roasted eggplant with goat cheese in marinara $7
Agnolotti stuffed with spinach in brown butter and sage $15
Pan-seared salmon with sea salt and cracked pepper $16
Coconut cake $6
Dessert-wine flight $11.95

314-727-7901. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-10 p.m. Sun.; deli open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

7624 Wydown Blvd.

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Our young, exceptionally capable waiter wisely did not give us a chance to decline dessert. On all three visits, he waved another handsome black folder under our noses before we could fib that we couldn't possibly -- well, you know the line. I Fratellini's confections are purchased from Marcia Sindel, of La Dolce Via. Bar Italia customers will recognize Sindel's signature domed tortas. The two we tried, to our disappointment, had been allowed to dry out. Her flourless chocolate-and-hazelnut torta was much fresher. It's a flat cake with bittersweet notes and a fudgy density. The house-made panna cotta ("cooked cream") is a firm custardlike dessert that has deposed crème brûlée on many New York menus. I Fratellini's pleasantly tart version is flecked with vanilla bean and drizzled with syrupy-sweet raspberry coulis. It was a delight, but the coconut chiffon cake, swaddled in whipped cream and a fleecy blanket of toasted coconut, was a truly exquisite indulgence -- just like I Fratellini.