Sherman's March

The venerable Billy Sherman's Deli makes a move but doesn't stray too far from where it came

Just as candy is positioned at the checkout counter in the supermarket, Sherman's bakery case beckons from beneath the cash register. Rows of cookies, pastries and brownies catch your eye as you walk in, and it takes iron-clad willpower to stand beside the case and pay your bill without buying one for the road. This assemblage of baked goods is especially impressive because Hallahan, who looks more like a NASCAR driver than a baker, makes most of the items in-house.

At Billy Sherman's, regulars show up like clockwork, and they're creatures of habit when it comes to their food, too
Jennifer Silverberg
At Billy Sherman's, regulars show up like clockwork, and they're creatures of habit when it comes to their food, too

Details

Barbecued beef $5.75
Barbecued bird $5.95
Denny's pocket $6.25
Egg salad $4.50
Creamy or vinegar-and-oil slaw $1.60
Hamantaschen $1.49
Oversize cookies $1.99

314-434-7340. Hours: 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat., 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.

12937 Olive

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And there's more than just cookies. Rugelach, a traditional Hanukkah treat, are bite-sized jelly-roll-style pastries made with a cream-cheese dough. Hamantaschen, one of the few pastries purchased from a bakery supplier, are shaped like tricornered hats. Each triangle conceals a dollop of sticky fruit, and the pastry has a cakelike crumb with crunchy fluted edges that fold toward the center, like a turnover. With the exception of a dry chocolate-covered cupcake and some bland kamish bread, all of the sweets we bought at Sherman's seemed to head straight for the opiate receptors in our brains. Lunching at Billy Sherman's Deli may not be right up there on the pleasure scale with, say, taking a hit of B.C. bud or sleeping with the hunk from the Lipitor commercial, but it sure beats eating in the company cafeteria.

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