Purists and dilettantes cringe when we sing odes to the BLT roll at Nobu's. They don't know what they're missing. Revered by many as the city's premier temple of sushi, Nobu's has previously pioneered such breakthroughs as slicing the nigiri sushi in half. That one was good, but it's got nothing on the BLT roll. This extraordinary nosh is just what you think: BLT stuff wrapped in vinegared rice and seaweed. We're not sure why, but the unexpected conviviality of these ingredients, combined with the bounce of wasabi and the excessive but indispensable jolt of soy sauce (we recommend the low-sodium kind to counterbalance the bacon) elevates both the BLT and the art of nori-maki to something of a holy pinnacle.