There was a time, not long ago, when the phrase "raw fish" made most St. Louisans blanch. But our palates are changing; we no longer gag at rawness, and sushi joints are popping up all over the place. Everyone's got his or her fave, but we say Sansui West is the best. Occupying the former location of another sushi restaurant, Ted and Teiko's, Sansui West's menu is exhaustive. The restaurant also caters to raw-fish cowards; in addition to an array of sashimi and sushi, Sansui boasts fantastic chicken teriyaki and sukiyaki and some of the best tempura around. But we're talking sushi here, and for all you sushi fiends, the restaurant offers Sansui boats -- actual miniature wooden boats that sit on your table and house enough sushi and rolls for the table. Get funny-tipsy on sake or Japanese beer while you notice the best endorsement for a sushi joint: The place is teeming with Japanese-Americans. Sansui also has a West Pine location in the Central West End that precedes its suburban counterpart, but the Manchester location is somehow better.