Muted Joy
The food at the Marquee's fine, though devoid of any star quality
Who knows why every waiter at Marquee is a guy in his early twenties, but the outcome of that is nervous, apprehensive, occasionally amateur service. During one visit, our server arrived with arms full of the second course while we were still clearly working our way through the first. Drinks were sometimes forgotten, and miscommunications abounded with regard to dishes that were unavailable on a given evening. The ensuing awkwardness from all these little issues can be uncomfortable, like being on a blind date.
Whether or not the Marquee Café smoothes out its glitches, the question remains: Just what purpose does this place suit? What makes a restaurant worth the visit, beyond ending one's hunger? What turns a few plates of food into a meal, an experience worth repeating?
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Marquee Cafe
212 N. Kingshighway Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63108
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: St. Louis - Central West End
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Details
Bacon-wrapped shrimp $7.95
Beef-tenderloin fillet $14.95
Chase club $7.50
Chocolate bread pudding $4.95
314-633-3200. Hours: 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sun.
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Such intangibles are near-impossible to quantify, but here's a start: Charo ain't the answer.
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