So important was the small but mighty protein-packed avocado that the Aztecs called it ahuacatl, or "testicle." And when they mashed it to make guacamole, they did it right, tossing in tomatoes, onions, chiles and maybe some coriander leaves. At the court of Montezuma, agave worms were included. Today Mexican restaurants add all sorts of other nonessentials, from sour cream to taco seasoning to -- Sun King forbid! -- grated cheese. Pueblo Solis takes a simpler route: Mashed ripe avocados (not too chunky, not too creamy) mixed with fresh tomatoes and the perfect balance of cilantro, onion, spices and fresh-squeezed lime juice from the big press in the kitchen. The tortilla chips are hot and house-made and can stand up to the test. Were we in touch with our past lives, we'd say it evokes the taste of Tenochtitlán.