Rock the Boat

Yackey's on the River brings hope and hush puppies to the banks of the Mississippi

For dessert, the array of off-menu cakes will right any meal's course. An old-fashioned chocolate "sinful cake" -- no flourless preparation or lava center, just cake and frosting -- and two kinds of cheesecake put up no fight against the fork. Even better is the bread pudding, heavier than most variations yet still submissive, and topped with a barely there lemon cream sauce that gives the ubiquitous dessert a nifty kick in the pants.

Old Man River, resurrected: Yackey's makes the Mighty Mississip a dining destination
Jennifer Silverberg
Old Man River, resurrected: Yackey's makes the Mighty Mississip a dining destination

Details

Cajun shark bites $8.95 (lunch)/$9.95 (dinner)
Crab cake slinger $8.50
Fried catfish platter $8.95
Bread pudding $4.75

314-436-4050. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

100 S. Leonor K. Sullivan Boulevard

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So long as people realize it's there, Yackey's will be able to serve as many things: the nearest place for Arch visitors to eat, a top choice to take parents during an in-town visit, a larky lunch spot for downtown business folk, a fun new place for brunch, one of the very few spots in town that does a Saturday brunch. And maybe, down the road, a restaurant that people will point to as the one that gave St. Louis riverfront dining the beachhead it so desperately needed.

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