And topping cold soft noodles with grilled meat, crunchy cold bean sprouts and fresh, flavorful herbs, as in a house special bun dac biet bon mua, vermicelli topped with grilled chicken, beef, pork and whole shrimp (i.e., with the head left on), ladled with the ubiquitous lime-spiked Vietnamese fish sauce, nuoc mam.
Another house special not to be missed is pho dac biet bon mua, a beef noodle soup. Vietnamese soups can be whole meals and are often served as breakfast -- which goes some way toward explaining why Four Seasons opens at 10:30 a.m. Much has been written about the nearly transcendent appeal of noodles and soup in Asian culture. A bowl of this soup explains more than a million words: a rich stock, cooked all day with beef bones and herbs, into which slices of rare and well-done beef, beef tendon, tripe and clear noodles are tossed and simmered. Alongside is a plate of fresh bean sprouts, cilantro leaves, a sprig of basil, a lime wedge and slices of jalapeño pepper, all of which you can add to your steaming bowl of heaven.
3348 S. Grand Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63118
Category: Restaurant > Vietnamese
Region: St. Louis - South Grand
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314-773-5600.
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. every day except Wed. (open Fri. & Sat. until 10:30 p.m.)
Four Seasons' liquor selections range from beer (including Saigon and Tsingtao) to a brief wine list and several umbrella drinks (mai tais, stingers, etc). Smoothies are big and refreshing, as is French coffee, served iced and sweetened with condensed milk. There are also several dessert "drinks," including a festive combination of jackfruit, palm seeds and flavored gelatin bits served in a parfait glass with ice and sweetened milk.
Walking up and down South Grand's Asian Mile with the other diners and club-hoppers, it's hard not to notice that the redevelopment of the business district is paying off. Several vacant storefronts still dot the area, though, and the strip has some way to go before it rivals, say, University City's Loop. In other words, there's definitely room for one more restaurant.
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