Let Us Now Praise Pan-Fried Poultry

Rusty's serves up the classics

You say you're too cool for a restaurant your grandmother would like, that you can't see beyond the neon lights and martini glasses of your hip little world. What were you, raised on irony and cynicism? Maybe you're one of those poseurs who wear horn-rimmed glasses and baggy, frumpy clothes because you're certainly not going to succumb to anything as bourgeois as fashion. In any case, the country motif of Rusty's American Kitchen (think Cracker Barrel without the gift shop) should tickle your retro sensibilities. And if it doesn't, then grow up. Because at Rusty's, while the surroundings might look hokey, the food is 100 percent real.

Rusty Van Hecke's restaurant, open for five months in the Mackenzie Pointe strip-mall space formerly occupied by Sukho Thai, was conceived to pay homage to the proprietor's "Gramma Jean," who, according to the menu, "hosted countless Sunday dinners featuring classic American comfort foods, creating an atmosphere of camaraderie for all." Ignore the fact that Grams served "classic American comfort foods" -- that's all there was back then. Food only became "classic" when rushed moms started nuking nightly meals so Dad could rush the offspring to any number of the extracurricular activities that we now define as childhood. Twenty years from now, "classic" American comfort food will be anything that takes more than two steps and three minutes to prepare.

But not if Rusty Van Hecke has any say in the matter. The former wholesale wine executive could be a spokesman for the nascent Slow Food Movement. Consider his signature dish: pan-fried chicken served with real mashed potatoes, real gravy and fresh green beans.

Table talk: Rusty's makes fried chicken like no one 
else in town.
Mark Gilliland
Table talk: Rusty's makes fried chicken like no one else in town.

Location Info

Map

Sukho Thai

7307 Watson Road
Shrewsbury, MO 63119

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Affton/ Concord

Details

Pan-fried chicken $10.95
Rib-eye steak $14.95
Basic burger $5.95
Tilapia $12.95
Peach cobbler $2.75

314-832-5555. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tue.-Thu.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. & Sat.; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. (breakfast until 2 p.m.) Sun.

7307 Watson Road (in Mackenzie Pointe Center), Shrewsbury

To my knowledge -- and I sample a lot of fried chicken -- Rusty's is the only place in town that doesn't deep-fry its birds. Van Hecke knows the folks who own Stroud's, the place to go for pan-fried chicken in Missouri. Unfortunately, it's located across the state, in Kansas City. Having grown up in KC, I'm familiar with the place -- right down to the long lines my father insisted were worth waiting in for one of our many Sunday dinners out. To this day, Stroud's elicits that glassy-eyed look of nostalgia in those of us who have smacked our lips and licked our fingers after finishing a meal of pan-fried chicken. So it was with high expectations that I strode into Rusty's. Before assaying the main event, I sought to soothe my eager palate with a plate of pan-fried gizzards and livers. (If you're gonna blow your diet on a plate of fried chicken, why not go all the way, after all?) Sad to say, Rusty was out of gizzards. A full plate of fried livers just seemed like too much of a good thing. As I scanned the rest of the appetizer list, I noted that a true diehard could combine a bunch of starters to form a big meal: hand-breaded onion rings, baby chicken breasts, barbecue or Buffalo-style wings, chicken fingers and spinach-and-artichoke dip. Discretion taking the better part of valor, I merely ordered the chicken.

First came a cup of house-made chicken noodle soup (I could have chosen a dinner salad, but I saw one, and it looked like any other dinner salad), prepared with homemade chicken stock. It makes a difference. The soup was flavorful, not as salty as a canned version, and chock-full of chunky white meat, sliced carrots and celery and thick, doughy noodles, the kind Gramma Jean must have used.

At this point I should note that aside from the soup-or-salad option, Rusty's offers the fried chicken dinner in several combos. There's the family-style version (a breast and two assorted pieces, for $10.95), the regular version (leg, thigh, wing and breast, for $11.95), all white meat (two breasts and two wings, $12.95), all breast (three big ones, $13.95) and all dark meat (two thighs and two legs, $11.45). For the record, I went with the family-style.

Visitors to Rusty's who've never sunk their teeth into a bona fide pan-fried chicken should take a moment to savor their first crisp bite of the bird. Perhaps I'm overly romantic about such things -- okay, I'm overly romantic about such things -- but to me, frying chicken in a cast-iron skillet elevates the flavor. Of course, the batter makes a difference, and Van Hecke's is simple but not bland. (You can, if you're fussy, request it a little spicier.) Mine was, well, perfect: not greasy or soggy -- as can be the case when frying at home in a too-crowded pan -- but beautifully crisp outside, moist within. True to the definition of comfort food, the mashed potatoes were ladled with a rich cream gravy, while the fresh green beans came with sautéed onions and bacon. The folks at Rusty's don't serve the magnificent biscuits I used to fill up on at Stroud's, but they do make their own tasty corn muffins, which sometimes are spiked with little slices of jalapeño pepper. The mini-bread loaves, however, were store-bought and dry.

Is there anything else on the menu, you might well wonder, now that we've devoted all this ink to the pan-fried chicken? Indeed, Rusty's offers other "classic" dishes -- meat loaf (topped with a pan gravy), chicken-fried steak (made with an actual, pounded slice of beef, and not with ground chuck as is now all too common), pan-fried catfish and fresh salmon (broiled or sautéed). Lunchtime brings the addition of a pretty decent burger -- thick, hand-pattied and grilled.

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