Wok and Woe

Jimmi Yin's idea is sweet, but the execution is sour

Sitting placidly in a trough of ice at the cash register, a glimmer of hope: a thorough array of Asian beers (Kirin, Sapporo, etc.) and bottles of J. & H. Selbach riesling. German whites make some of the best pairings with spicy Eastern foods, a fact often overlooked by both Asian restaurateurs and their customers.

With that kitchen stuff, those cooks, those big menus and that riesling, everything's in place for Jimmi Yin's to be the start of something big -- a concept that would draw crowds and perhaps morph into a successful chain some day. For now, management is restructuring its menu and looking to lower prices as a way to bring in more business. Meanwhile, the Vulcan still waits for a chance to shine. On one of my visits, a manager told me the only foods to see the porcelain-enameled inside of that beauty were pork short ribs (think mediocre Texas barbecue), frozen cookie dough and an Indonesian-style quartered chicken that has since been removed from the menu.

That's like filling an $81 Riedel crystal wine glass with Three-Buck Chuck.

Wonton desires: Jimmi Yin's has all the ingredients for 
success, but the food needs work.
Jennifer Silverberg
Wonton desires: Jimmi Yin's has all the ingredients for success, but the food needs work.

Location Info

Map

SanSai Japanese Grill

20 Allen Ave.
Webster Groves, MO 63119

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Webster Groves

Details

Cool lettuce wraps $5.50
Hoisin grilled chicken salad $6.95
Jimmi's sweet and spicy chicken $7.95
Banana wontons $3.50

314-961-0006. Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

9739 Manchester Road, Rock Hill

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Correction published 6/9/04: In the original version of this review, we mistakenly referred to undercooked potatoes in the Malaysian rice bowl. The potatoes weren't undercooked; they were slices of daikon radish. The incorrect sentence has been extracted from the above version.

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