Certainly one of the greatest ideas in culinary history, the fish taco is nevertheless a tricky one to pull off. So it's not surprising that the dish, which enjoys huge popularity on the West Coast, doesn't appear all that often on St. Louis menus. Time was the best fish taco in town was the one created at the legendary but now defunct Flaco's Tacos on Lindell. Nowadays we reserve our superlative-lavishing for Salina's, way out in Chesterfield. There, lightly battered cod fillets are gently wrapped in soft shells, sprinkled with a little cheese, tomato and cole slaw and doused with a tangy, ranch dressing-like salsa. Bet you can't eat there just once.