Outta Sight

Juniper Grill triumphs even as a small, unassuming storefront bistro in Soulard

The wine list's 38 bottles favor fine, if familiar, varietals (a Selbach Riesling, a Rodney Strong cabernet, a Steele merlot, a Walnut City pinot noir, a split of Mumm Cuvée Napa), more than half of them available by the glass and all priced quite reasonably; only four bottles (including a Moet & Chandon) cost more than $38. Incorporating a bit of truly old-school bistro fashion, Hughes -- a former GM at Remy's Kitchen and Wine Bar who claims his wife had to coach him into appreciating less expensive wines -- even offers a house red and a house white, each four bucks a glass, for folks who just want some vino in a glass, like a Chilean chardonnay or a cab-merlot blend.

Jumpin' Juniper: Effortless bistro style, bright culinary 
panache
Jennifer Silverberg
Jumpin' Juniper: Effortless bistro style, bright culinary panache

Location Info

Map

Juniper Grill

1928 S. 12th St.
St Louis, MO 63104-3951

Category: Restaurant >

Region: St. Louis - Clayton

Details

Roasted game hen $16.95
King's Eggs $4.95
Duck breast $12.95
Crepes $4.50

314-621-9195. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

1928 South 12th Street, Soulard

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Yet one more reason to express your gratitude for that game hen: Just a couple of weeks ago, it ranked as an endangered species on Juniper Grill's menu. It wasn't selling, says Hughes, and besides, it's really autumnal fare. But the first weekend it failed to appear on the menu, about fifteen returning diners asked for it. It's really saying something when an unassuming little storefront bistro -- in Soulard, no less, a nabe not known for its fine dining -- elicits such customer loyalty so quickly. Clearly, there's a lot to be thankful for here.

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