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Combo Clatter

Mélange might have a few too many ingredients in the mix

Comments (0) By Rose Martelli Wednesday, Mar 30 2005

...continued from page 1

It was nice to see that Mélange bakes its own bread, but the results can be disappointing. On one visit the rolls were downright bad, dense inside and tasting of nothing. On another visit we were never offered bread at all, despite the fact that bread plates and butter knives sat unused throughout the meal. Another restaurant basic, the house salad, was uninspired, a been-there-done-that blend of field greens, a pinch of what must have been the described butternut squash but may as well have been carrots, a parcel of tomato quarters and cuke slices along the rim of the plate and a drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette.

The senior Mr. Lee has assembled an excellent dessert list, which includes a Grand Marnier-soused carrot cake and a sinfully dense chocolate pot-au-crème doused with raspberry sauce and crowned with homemade whipped cream. There's also a vanilla-bean crème brûlée -- the seared tuna of local desserts, seen just about everywhere -- that's so whisper-light, it manages to outdo all other versions of the omnipresent dessert.

Jennifer Silverberg

Mixin' it up: Nadia Giannakopoulos (left) and Lisa Berenson (right) enjoy a private party in Mélange's front room.

Jennifer Silverberg

Mixin' it up: Nadia Giannakopoulos (left) and Lisa Berenson (right) enjoy a private party in Mélange's front room.

Location Info

Map

Melange

512 N. Euclid Ave.
St Louis, MO 63108-1604

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Central West End

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Kirk's American Bistro & Bar

512 N. Euclid Ave.
St Louis, MO 63108-1604

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Central West End

Details

Dolmades $8
Albóndigas $6
Liver and onions $16
Pot-au-crème $5

314-361-8883. Hours: 5-10:30 p.m. Tue.-Thu., 5-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-9:30 p.m. Sun. Brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sat.- Sun.

512 North Euclid Avenue

More About

Kirk's, though quite a fine restaurant, was never able to overcome its location and instill itself in the hearts and bellies of a critical mass of St. Louis diners. Mélange seems intent on making a louder splash. With some fine-tuning in the kitchen -- and perhaps a little more volume on the menu -- it may yet stand out.