Kids Today

Sekisui Pacific Rim has no problem making the grade

Comments (0) By Rose Martelli Wednesday, Apr 6 2005

...continued from page 1

Jennifer Silverberg

Honor roll: Chef Phong Senethavilay prepares gold-star-worthy sushi.

Location Info

Map

Sekisui Pacific Rim

7443 Forsyth Blvd.
Clayton, MO 63105

Category: Restaurant > Asian Fusion

Region: Clayton

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Details

Ocean pyramid $9.95
Halibut $16.95
Shellfish Gorgonzola fettuccine $24.95
Conch salad $6.95

314-726-0033. Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 5 p.m.- midnight Mon.-Thu., 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri.-Sat.

7443 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton

More About

Sekisui Pacific Rim strives for a lounge-loft ambiance that it doesn't quite pull off. Housed in what was originally downtown Clayton's Famous-Barr, the space was awkwardly carved into an eatery a few dead restaurants ago. The ceilings are high and the ductwork is exposed, and pieces of modish artwork are hung here and there along the stark white walls. There's even a corner near the bar where three humongous black bean bags seemingly encourage boozy lolling-about, and a swanky cocktail menu to match: more than 30 concoctions that, like the signature sushi items, refrain from getting full-on cutesy; even a drink as silly-sounding as Barrel Full of Monkeys (hazelnut and banana liqueurs, crème de cacao, orange juice and cream) tastes mature and stiff, while the wasabitini takes its cue from a bloody mary and adds just a whiff of knock-you-down wasabi. But the overall character of the place still feels a bit staid and hushed.

So maybe the new kid could stand to play up its youthfulness some more. But when it comes to the food, Sekisui Pacific Rim is clearly an all-star overachiever.