V-licious

A confession: We just can't stop eating at Big V's

A straight-shooting goomba like Vito Racanelli has probably made a lot of friends -- and maybe a few enemies.

You'd think his brother John, for one, would be regally pissed at him. Since 1992 John has owned and operated the Racanelli's Pizza location inside the mall-less food court known as the Market in the Loop -- directly across from where Vito opened Big V's Burger Joint last fall. Up until then, the by-the-slice biz brushed aside unworthy competitors who dared lease the counter space Big V's now inhabits with easygoing, ba-da-bing swagger. Erstwhile occupants, most recently New York Burrito, gave off weary airs from the day they were born, and sometimes suffered in quality (those burritos were kinda blargh-tasting). But Big V's, decked out with random bits of Americana, some family photos and a painted mural of Bronx native Vito riding the No. 6 train from the Big Apple to the Delmar MetroLink stop, has seemed comfy and classic from the get-go, like your favorite pair of jeans from college that miraculously still fit.

Big Vito can't even fit into jeans he bought last year. So it would stand to reason that his wife, too, would be less than thrilled with twenty-pounds-Bigger V's appetite for the tuna melts, onion rings, chili, chili dogs, chili cheese fries, cheesecake on a stick and messy, meaty burgers he slings at his no-calorie-left-behind monument to good ol' American gastronomic gluttony.

Vito Racanelli has gone burger, and we couldn't be 
happier.
Jennifer Silverberg
Vito Racanelli has gone burger, and we couldn't be happier.

Location Info

Map

Big V's Burger Joint

6655 Delmar Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63130-4544

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: University City

Racanelli's Cucina

6655 Delmar Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63130

Category: Restaurant > Bistro

Region: University City

Details

The Animal $5.75
The Big Daddy $5
Classic Patty Melt $5
Chili cheese fries $3.75

314-863-2448. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., noon- 9 p.m. Sun.

6655 Delmar Boulevard, University City

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For that matter, the entire Racanelli clan (they of the aforementioned local pizza chain) might be seething since Vito renounced his marinara-infused bloodlines to go burger.

He even shuns Fitz's glass-bottled soda pop -- headquartered right down the street! -- in favor of New Jersey-crafted Boylan Bottleworks products. If you ask him why, he'll tell you without hesitation that he offers "only the best," and should you take that to mean Vito thinks Fitz's soft drinks are less than superior, well, he's not going to stop you. Just as he's not going to stop his friend Nick, an old buddy from his cooking-school days at Johnson & Wales in Rhode Island, from wearing a BoSox cap while manning the cash register. In St. Louis. On opening day.

You got a problem with that?

Suzy, a 29-year-old neuropsych grad student at Washington University, doesn't have a problem with that. Suzy is a Loop resident who first got wind of Big V's back in December, when her neighbor's kids seemed to be spending most of their winter break walking to and from Big V's between games of Halo 2. Vito's Tony Soprano-meets-Soup Nazi counter manner may faze meek-minded customers, but not Suzy. In fact, on her maiden visit to Big V's, so impressed was Vito by her rapid-fire recitation of her order that he hollered, "Now that's the way you do it!" and knocked 10 percent off her bill.

Vito has helped Suzy pack an extra few pounds onto her own frame as she's advanced from being a frequenter (two or three times a week) to a bit of an obsessive. She starts thinking about what she'll order next from Big V's, and how soon, about an hour after her last meal there. Suffice to say Suzy's never felt this way about another Loop eatery.

Suzy is me. Or at least she's the alter ego I improvised when Vito, recognizing me as a regular, introduced himself. Eventually I got so nervous about accidentally outing myself that I began sending friends into the Market to order for me, thrusting wads of singles into their hands and telling them in the disturbed pitch of an addict to bring me something from Big V's while I waited in the alley out back.

I've tried virtually everything on Big V's menu, and I have never been disappointed. Aside from the fact that I believe lettuce and tomato should come free of charge on request -- there oughta be a law; Vito jacks an extra 50 cents onto the tab for each -- Vito and I see utterly eye to eye on burger philosophy: Don't season the ground beef. Shape the patties by hand (get a load of the jagged circumference of a Big V burger). For the love of Pete, toast your buns. And dress the finished product relentlessly.

I've heard some whispers 'round the Loop that the proportions of Big V's patties are on the underwhelming side. To that I say: The Thickburger is the fat-headed Jason Giambi of the burger world, fine for a cheap thrill every once in a while but not qualified for posterity. And also: Vito piles two and three patties apieceon his signature burgers. So there.

The Animal, a triple-threat stack o' chuck assaulted by American cheese, bacon, grilled onions, barbecue sauce and roasted jalapeños -- a taunting dare of a burger -- may reduce you to barking out monosyllabic grunts of excitement. Or you may wind up like my six-foot, 220-pound friend Ryan, who got halfway through his Animal before gingerly placing the remains back on its wrapper, patting his tummy like an old geezer and murmuring concernedly, "Whoa, I don't know if I can finish this." This from a man sporting a three-inch gash along the bridge of his nose courtesy of a rugby match the previous afternoon.

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