This Little Piggy

Larry Lampert's barbecue joint is smokin'

This is the story of Lampert's Plush Pig Barbeque, a tale of how one man went from selling auto parts to selling the best barbecue you never thought you'd find in downtown Clayton, and how he lost 150 pounds doing it.

Longtime St. Louisans might remember Larry Lampert. Back in the day, Lampert starred in the television ads for his own Larry Lampert Auto Centers. At the time, Lampert was a man of three hundred pounds, and his auto-parts empire, at its peak a chain of eighteen stores, was pretty much where you turned to for your carburetors and your fan belts. Then the AutoZones and the Advance Auto Parts came along, and even with his ubiquitous TV spots, it became nearly impossible for Lampert to compete as an independent in the market he once dominated.

Lampert shut down the parts barns and turned to the pizza business, opening Papa Nate's Pizza in south St. Louis. Again things went well. But then, like a big bad wolf following little-pig Lampert from house to house, the national market began blowing down his door again. Imagine Lampert telling this part, in his grandfatherly, aw-shucks, Captain Kangaroo storytelling voice. "And then guess who came in? In comes Domino's, and suddenly you couldn't sell a pizza unless you had a coupon.

"I only serve what I like here": Plush Pig's Larry 
Lampert (right, with daughter Angie)
Eric Fogleman
"I only serve what I like here": Plush Pig's Larry Lampert (right, with daughter Angie)

Location Info

Map

Lampert's Plush Pig Barbeque

2811 S. McKnight Road
Rock Hill, MO 63119

Category: Restaurant > Barbecue

Region: Webster Groves

Details

Pulled pork sandwich $4.95
One meat dinner $6.95
Mixed grill $14.95
Boone's Farm $5.75

314-725-4411. Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Mon.-Sat. (open Fri. till 9 p.m.)

7814 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton

"So then I thought, hey: sub sandwiches."

Lampert sold the pizza business and opened Fatman's Sub Shop on Olive Boulevard and Warson Road.

"We get into that and we start doing gangbusters with subs," he says. "And then guess who came in? In comes Subway. I started to think: 'This is crazy.'"

Now it's August of 1995, and Lampert decides that for his upcoming birthday, he's going to have a barbecue celebration at Fatman's. Barbecue was always a Lampert family favorite -- and, as Lampert realized when he began offering barbecue at his sub shop, a customer favorite as well.

The entrepreneurial cogs in his brain whirled once more. "There are no national chains for barbecue, because it's very regionalized. It's very taste-specific. And people who like barbecue will go anywhere for barbecue."

Lampert closed down Fatman's Sub Shop and opened Fatman's Barbeque. Fatman's Barbeque did as well as Papa Nate's and Fatman's Subs, but when someone came along wanting to buy the business, he figured it was time to retire. Then he found that he was bored out of his mind, so he opened Plush Pig Barbeque, a catering-only concern. With no mass-marketer lurking around to snatch his customer base, the operation got so big that Lampert found himself with the choice of either relocating to a bigger facility or scaling back.

Lampert doesn't believe in scaling back. He called for reinforcements, inviting his daughter Angie, who'd grown up around his food businesses and previously worked in wholesale distribution and as a manager at Culpeppers, to go in with him on a restaurant and catering operation.

In downtown Clayton.

Two months ago Plush Pig opened its doors on Forsyth Boulevard, in the space most recently occupied by the erstwhile restaurant B. Tomas.

Considering how many ventures Lampert has undertaken over the course of his meandering career, it's funny to hear him say, "I believe in doing five or so items well. If we can't do an excellent job in five items, we have no business being in business." At Plush Pig, that means Carolina pulled pork, Texas beef brisket, sausage, ribs and chicken, available in a round-robin assortment: a one- or two-meat dinner with fries and slaw; two ribs and a meat with fries and slaw; a "mixed grill" (two ribs, pork, beef, chicken, sausage and fries); any meat on a sandwich; or a monster, kitchen-sink family platter that'll feed a family of four or five.

Lampert, a sauce-on-the-side barbecue man, does all his smoking on-site, using Missouri cherry wood. He knows that smoking, kinda like pizza-baking, is not an exact science. It depends on things like the humidity, and how cold it is outside. He'll smoke a pork butt for twelve to fourteen hours, a brisket for about eight to ten.

Plush Pig's barbecue is awesome. The brisket is angel-soft, one edge of each piece limned with a blood-red smoke line. Eating it is like tucking into a brisket pillow. Actually, eating it is like playing with your food, because it's just too tempting not to grab each piece with your thumb and forefinger and dangle it into your mouth.

The pulled pork is right-on, sweet and smoky all at once, and a fun-as-heck, gnash-happy workout for the bicuspids. When served as a sandwich, on an untoasted burger bun with slices of white onion and pickle, the bun proves no match for the pork -- but that's as it should be.

The ribs and sausage run a close second to the brisket and pork. The rib meat doesn't quite faint off the bone, but it hardly puts up a fight, and much to Plush Pig's credit, there's much more meat on the bone than you get with your average rib. The sausage's casing can sometimes be too capitulating; other times, it's got a great snap to it.

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