Fill Her Up

Jasoom's banana milkshake martini is awesome. If only the rest of the menu had such panache.

If the appetizers took comfort to the point of comatose, the dessert list failed to soothe or cheer -- a real letdown at a comfort-food restaurant. I can't recall the last time a dessert menu failed so universally to inspire. Unquestionably, chocolate and polenta are feel-good comfort foods. But mixed together into a fudge-dense chocolate polenta cake, the cornmeal's granular texture was distinctly unappealing. And while cream cheese on a bagel may be a happy way to begin your day, you're probably not seeking it out for dessert. Jasoom's raspberry-cream cheese crostata was reminiscent of an Entemann's danish: familiar but boring.

For the most part, Jasoom's main-course menu was a welcome break from the first- and final-course funks: meat loaf infused with sharp notes of tomato and brown sugar and the fatty goodness of bacon; pozole that combined pinto beans, hominy, chiles, rice and roasted pork into a singularly sensational flavor (but could have used more than just three tortillas on the side); fried chicken of the deepest mahogany tones. And the Kentucky Hot Brown was downright stunning: a bowlful of sliced roast turkey breast, bacon, garlic bread and tomato, flooded with gooey cheese and Mornay sauce. Think eggs Benedict's sinister twin. In fact, the only main-course misstep was the red curry, a spiced-up stew of chicken, potatoes and vegetables that was fine but nothing more.

Identity crisis: Jasoom's comfort-food innovations can 
be delightful -- or disappointing.
Jennifer Silverberg
Identity crisis: Jasoom's comfort-food innovations can be delightful -- or disappointing.

Details

Fried dill pickles $6.95
House salad $5.50
Meat loaf $13.95
Pozole $12.95

314-664-4145. Hours: Lunch noon-3 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Fri.; noon-10 p.m. Sat.

3210 South Grand Boulevard

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Maybe when the weather turns cold I'll find myself craving the meat loaf or the pozole. Perhaps I'll even wish Jasoom was open for brunch -- I can see that Kentucky Hot Brown satisfying many a Sunday-morning craving. But it'll soon be summer, and staring down the barrel of Jasoom's menu in July seems a daunting prospect.

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