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This south-side spot proves you can go home again (and drink Dad's beer while you're there)

Comments (0) By Rose Martelli Wednesday, Jun 1 2005

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The Tin Can's kitchen is teensy, with barely any room for storage. That can be a good thing: Pretty much everything is made daily, from scratch, because there isn't freezer space to serve up-from-frozen foodstuffs. The seafood cakes contain no crabstick. The chicken tenders, a froz-food gimme if ever there was one, are dredged by hand in buttermilk, sliced almonds and honest-to-goodness corn flakes. The mac-and-cheese is triumphant, mixing cheddar, Velveeta (for smoothness), a little bit of corn flakes (for bite), a little bit of half-and-half (yet more smoothness), hot sauce and brown sugar, the last two ingredients imparting a nicely calibrated sweetness on the palate, followed by a superb spicy afterburn.

The small, rotating list of desserts -- German chocolate cake, brownie à la mode, red velvet cake -- come from La Dolce Via, the near-legendary Forest Park Southeast bakery that supplies breads and sweets to dozens of local eateries. (La Dolce Via owner Marcia Sindel was a regular customer at Llywelyn's.) The quality of La Dolce Via products is unimpeachable, but in keeping with the Tin Can's blue-collar aesthetic, I was hoping to find desserts whipped up in that wee kitchen from Duncan Hines boxes purchased at the 7-Eleven across the street. (Cross that way yourself after dinner, though, and you can enjoy a frosty treat from Snow Cones Galore, a seasonal shack adjacent to the 7-Eleven parking lot that offers a few dozen flavors, including chocolate, wedding cake, lots of fruit stuff and tiger's blood.)

Jennifer Silverberg

Home sweet home: The Tin Can serves up delicious platters of nostalgia -- and plenty of suds to wash it all down.

Location Info

Map

Tin Can Tavern & Grille-Morganford

3157 Morganford Road
St. Louis, MO 63116

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: St. Louis - Tower Grove

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Details

Southside seafood cakes $6.95
Low Country meat pies $5.95
The Pot and Kettle $5.95
Grilled cheese and tomato bisque $5.95

314-865-3003. Kitchen hours: 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.

3157 Morganford Road

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When I ordered the grilled cheese on my second visit, I did something I never, ever do in public. I doused that baby with ketchup -- my own nostalgic habit. Once more, Headrick had made me feel right at home.