Parlor Game

The St. Louis Pizza Haus proves that even when pizza's kinda bad, it's still pretty good

Besides pizza, the Pizza Haus sells a nice, wide array of other blue-collar Italian goodies, like fettuccine Alfredo and meatball hoagies. A stab at the spaghetti and meatballs resulted in overcooked starch that stuck to my molars and meatballs that were on the hard, unsubtly seasoned side. I had better luck with a Philly cheesesteak hoagie. Though the steak slices would be considered way too thick in the City of Brotherly Love, the beef was juicy and complemented nicely by a pile of onions and green pepper.

Let it be known, too, that St. Louis Pizza Haus serves up some of the best oven-baked wings in town. Nothing scrawny, burnt or up-from-frozen here. These chicken wings boast bona fide mouthfuls of tender, quality meat, shot through with just the right calibration of melted butter vs. Frank's RedHot. And that's coming from someone who's not much of a wing fan. Which is to say: Even when they're kinda good, I usually find them pretty bad.

Here they're pretty good -- like the pizza.

Jennifer Silverberg

Location Info

Map

St Louis Pizza Haus

6602 Delmar Blvd.
University City, MO 63130-4503

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: University City

Dewey's Pizza-Kirkwood

124 N. Kirkwood Road
Kirkwood, MO 63122

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Kirkwood

Details

Specialty pizzas, 14-inch $15.98
Specialty pizzas, 16-inch $17.69
Wings (10-piece) $6.99
Wings (20-piece) $11.95

314-862-4287. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Noon-7 p.m. Sun.

6602 Delmar Boulevard, University City

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Correction published 9/7/05: As originally published, this review failed to note that St. Louis Pizza Haus owners Sande and Julian Stevenson paid a franchising fee to the owner of a similarly named Jefferson City establishment. Additionally, some readers felt the review invoked racist stereotypes in discussing the owners’ heritage. That wasn’t our intention; our apologies if it came off that way. The above version reflects the corrected text.

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