Grouse of the Seven Gables

Will this Clayton inn ever get an above-par eatery?

Room and bored: Bistro Tercet is the latest in a long line of ho-hum Seven Gables eateries.
Jennifer Silverberg
Room and bored: Bistro Tercet is the latest in a long line of ho-hum Seven Gables eateries.

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Seven Gables Inn

26 N. Meramec Ave.
Clayton, MO 63105

Category: Hotels/Resorts

Region: Clayton

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Lobster cocktail $10
Red snapper $22
Black and blue salad $10
Cinnamon ice cream $6

26 North Meramec Avenue, Clayton; 314-863 -8400. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tue.-Fri. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Sat.

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Bistro Tercet's wine list is brief, and less than inspiring. When Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, the king of fancy-sounding supermarket wines, is the first red on the list, that spells buzzkill.

Table settings in the dining room include bread plates, yet on a Saturday night we were never offered bread. The dinner menu touts a sorbet intermezzo after the appetizers and before the entrées, but we never saw that either. I doubt that owed to harried help; ours was one of only two tables occupied between the prime hours of 7 and 9 p.m. If only for the sake of the servers, who are quite friendly, I hope such sad turnout is atypical.

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