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“When I glanced at your byline, I could have sworn it said ‘Born Miserable.’”Published on November 30, 2005Eat Up When I glanced at your byline, "by Rose Martelli," I could have sworn for a second that it said "Born Miserable." Chain mail:I enjoy reading Rose Martelli's accounts of new dining experiences in my old hometown. In your Maggiano's review, you mention that Maggiano's was originated by Lettuce Entertain You in Chicago. Maggiano's is now a product of Brinker International in Dallas, and I had assumed it was originated by them. While living in Dallas several years ago, I peered inside the Maggiano's in North Park Center. Having the same initial impression you received, I didn't bother staying for dinner. Maggiano's was truly a caricature of an Italian restaurant, but believe me, the Dallas chain dining industry has created far worse. Some featured waitstaff attempting dreadful renditions of Edward G. Robinson in Little Caesar, and most mercifully never expanded beyond north Texas before disappearing. Why does St. Louis, of all cities, flock to places like this? To the chains' credit, could it be that the old Hill family restaurant formulas (either simple taverns with limited menus featuring melted cheese-laden pastas or expensive Continental dining in the mold of Tony's) are no longer appealing to Gens X and Y? Perhaps establishments like Portabella, Limoncello and Trattoria Branica can fill the gap. Crowd pleaser:Why, she asks, are we all rushing to the newly opened Maggiano's even though they have done no local advertising? Well, duh. It's because we are familiar with the Chicago original and are delighted to see it re-created closer to home. The food is so good it was obviously a struggle for Ms. Martelli to find ways to slam the place. She professes to be offended by wood "fixtures" that are possibly not actual mahogany, by a location and streetscape that are convenient and attractive and by servings that are really large. Give me a break! Next time, RFT, send someone who enjoys dining out. And Now, Dessert! By no stretch of the imagination does this establishment serve the second-best caipirinha in the city. In fact, it's probably the worst. I acknowledge that Yemanja has one of the best caipirinhas. But they do have serious competition in Café Brasil just down the road in Rock Hill. While I am a lover of caipirinhas (can you tell?), this will certainly not keep me away from this wonderful restaurant. Know that your review has led others to tell a friend who has told a friend about Boogaloo. It is sure to become a frequently visited spot by my friends and me. Fatwa Down Hold the Applause For links to the winning stories, park your browser at www.riverfronttimes.com. Erratum
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