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Gonna miss Rossino’s when it closes up shop? Failoni’s will get you through.

I typically try to avoid ordering chicken when I go out, mostly because restaurants disrespect the bird, seemingly preparing it for folks who subsist on boring, bland food (and who probably own Friends on DVD and order Bacardi-and-Diet-Coke at bars). Failoni's made me a chicken convert. An off-menu chicken salad club, laden with mayo, studded with bits of celery and garnished with fresh lettuce and tomato, was yummy. Sorry, but there's no other word for it. And that lemon garlic chicken entrée was to die for. The lemon tang of its brothy sauce struck a soaring high note without tasting overly acidic. The boneless, skinless breast was grilled to perfection. Juicy, not tough, and nicely charred with grill marks on it. You can choose from a list of about five sides; I had two, cooked beets smacked with vinegar, and string beans. The beans took a gracious, mild backseat to the bracing yet sweet flavor of the beets.

On Tuesday nights Failoni's offers a pan-fried chicken dinner. Breasts and drumsticks alike boasted a thick, crunchy, brown crust, yet not a whisper of greasiness, while the meat was hot and juicy. I don't know how Alex Jr., who mans the stoves on Tuesdays, manages this magical feat.

One other scheduling quirk bears mention: Failoni's is essentially a weekdays-only operation, though they are open for parties on Saturdays.

Instant party: Helen Vasel (left) and Chris Shaw (right) celebrate St. Pat's at Failoni's.
Jennifer Silverberg
Instant party: Helen Vasel (left) and Chris Shaw (right) celebrate St. Pat's at Failoni's.

Location Info

Map

Failoni's

6715 Manchester Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63139

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: St. Louis - Dogtown

Details

6715 Manchester Avenue; 314-781-5221.
Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon., 7 a.m.-10 p.m.
Tue-Thu., 7 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Fri.

Flash-fried spinach $5.95
Sicilian salad $5.25
Lemon garlic chicken $6.95
Tiramisu $4.50

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Desserts aren't made on the premises, but by the time the sweets rolled around, I didn't care. The tiramisu was a classic specimen. Spumoni was coated in a hard chocolate shell with nuts and maraschino cherries studded within: divine. Next time I intend to try the tartufo: a dessert of chocolate ice cream with chocolate-dipped raspberries that plays on the fact that tartufo is the Italian word for truffle.

Every once in a while, I fall in love with a place to the point where I start inventing reasons to go back. Whose birthday's coming up? When's the next holiday? It's five o'clock somewhere! Rossino's was that kind of place. And so is Failoni's. (Except on the weekends!)

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