Heavenly Discovery

This gelato's so exceptional, it might as well be from another planet

One of the other things I love about gelato — probably what I love about it most — is the frankness of its flavors. Chocolate gelato doesn't taste like chocolate; it is chocolate. It is a vat of cocoa flying at your taste buds. Peach gelato is the syrupy sweetness of a canned peach. Grasshopper, a chocolate-mint flavor I found at Gelato di Riso one afternoon (there is some rotating of flavors at both locations; at Gelato di Riso, perhaps a little bit more) is the insides of a Thin Mint cookie. Pink grapefruit gelato is a mouthful of acidic, citrusy pulp.

As wonderful as gelato is, man cannot live by it alone, and so Gelateria and Gelato di Riso both also operate as coffeehouses and light-fare cafés. Both serve paninis and breakfast items and espressos, and all of those things are nicely filling and nicely made in-house as well. Perhaps because it's had a few more months to find its footing, Gelato di Riso seems a bit more well-rounded in both its savory and sweet menus. In addition to lovely pressed sandwiches — I particularly enjoyed the meatless ones, especially the Capri, with whole-milk mozzarella, tomato and basil — di Riso proprietor Reis offers a rotating selection of homemade soups. Just as the gelato is a delicious enough reason to crave sweaty summer days, the soups make you crave air-conditioned environs chilly enough to merit a cup of her hot creations, like a velvety cream of asparagus, a sharp and vibrant minestrone, or a hearty and satisfying cream of potato.

Ta-ta, ice cream — gelato (like Suzy Reis' version, above) is the best treat in town.
Jennifer Silverberg
Ta-ta, ice cream — gelato (like Suzy Reis' version, above) is the best treat in town.

Location Info


Gelato di Riso-Warson Woods

9905 Manchester Road
Warson Woods, MO 63122

Category: Restaurant > Dessert

Region: Kirkwood


Gelato di Riso
9905 Manchester Road, Warson Woods; 314 -962-0660. Hours: 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.

Small gelato (3.5 oz.) $2.50
Grande gelato (7 oz.) $4.50
Take-home pint $7.50
Panini $6.50

1327 Washington Avenue; 314-621-8838. Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 8 a.m.- midnight Fri., 10 a.m.-midnight Sat., noon-8 p.m. Sun.

Mini gelato (3.5 oz) $2.50
Large gelato (7.5 oz) $4.00
Take-home pint $6
Panini $4.50

Most notably, Gelato di Riso offers a shot of balsamic glaze to go with its gelatos. It is a cooked and distilled derivative of the same Trebbiano grape juice that's used to make balsamic vinegar, kind of like a cross between balsamic vinegar and maple syrup, its tartness meant to further coax out the gelato's flavors. Try just a trace of it on a spoonful of gelato — too much, and it'll taste like a spoonful of medicine. Try it, and you'll have a how-I-discovered-gelato story of your own.

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