Ballpark Frank

The lowdown on eats at the new ballyard

At the very least, I didn't think I'd see, in St. Louis of all places, an Italian-food concession conceded to a heat-and-eat supermarket product.

And when I revisited the Redbird Club and saw that the bar there offered mudslides (the only mixed drink listed), I didn't want to see the bartender screw the cap off a bottle and pour the premixed product over ice. I did, however, spy a bottle of Schlafly Pale Ale arrayed with the other available beers — and I wished I'd ordered that instead.

Onward. A patty melt at Dizzy's Diner bespoke cow only in its leatheriness. A "fireball burger" from the same stand was nothing more than a hamburger doused with a few pumps of nacho cheese sauce and a scattering of those godawful pickled jalapeño slices. The breading on an order of onion rings delivered the essence of...flash-fried cardboard.

Cards fan Rhonda Stone sinks her teeth into a ballpark brat.
Jennifer Silverberg
Cards fan Rhonda Stone sinks her teeth into a ballpark brat.

Location Info

Map

Busch Stadium

Broadway & Poplar St.
St. Louis, MO 63102

Category: Sports and Recreation

Region: St. Louis - Downtown

Details

Busch Stadium
250 Stadium Plaza; 314-421-3060.
Hours: Stadium gates open about two hours before game time.

Mudslide $6
Philly cheesesteak $7.50
Lobster Rangoon $7
Plate dinner $10.75

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Opposite the food stations in the Redbird Club, there are two or three carts that offer plate dinners. At one, the meal was mostaccioli, a green salad, a sausage-and-pepper sandwich and a bag of chips. You could also opt for two sandwiches plus chips, if you were put off by the idea of eating mostaccioli and salad at the ballgame. If you weren't put off by the idea of them, you probably would be put off by the food itself. The mostaccioli was one stiff breeze away from reverting to dough form, while the salad was visibly dried out. The sausage-and-pepper sandwich was workmanlike but possessed no personality.

The wrap-up: The Cards slugged out a 9-7 victory. The critic hauled herself over to Mike Shannon's, looking for something to eat.

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