All's Fare in Love and Noir

Ian finds a remedy for his existential crisis at the Delmar Restaurant and Lounge.

I've always liked the Delmar's pizzas. These are small — one is enough for one person's dinner — with a thin (but not St. Louis-style) crust. The four-cheese pizza is a blend of mozzarella, pecorino, Asiago and blue cheese, lightly sauced and sprinkled with fresh basil. I'm not a huge fan of barbecue chicken pizzas, and my dining companion professed openly to dislike them, but we were both impressed by the Delmar's. The barbecue sauce wasn't too sweet, and the hunks of chicken were tender.

The pizzas are available after dinner service ends at 10 p.m., as is the lengthy list of appetizers. These err on the side of crowd-pleasing bar food: a fritto misto of popcorn shrimp and calamari served with a very watery marinara; spinach-artichoke dip with a layer of bubbling-hot mozzarella on top; a decent (if a bit too astringent) hummus.

You could make a meal out of the roasted vegetable or beef tenderloin quesadillas, though I don't know that I'd recommend it. The beef quesadilla fell flat; even the roasted red pepper sauce drizzled over it lacked flavor. The roasted vegetable quesadilla, on the other hand, had a slightly bitter taste, as if there were too many root vegetables in the mix. In this case the roasted-jalapeño cream sauce did brighten things up a bit, and — unusual for this town — said sauce actually had some heat.

In a familiar place: The Delmar attracts revelers, drinkers 
and wandering souls.
Jennifer Silverberg
In a familiar place: The Delmar attracts revelers, drinkers and wandering souls.

Location Info

Map

Delmar Restaurant & Lounge-CLOSED

6235 Delmar Blvd.
University City, MO 63130

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Delmar/ The Loop

Details

The Delmar Restaurant and Lounge
6235 Delmar Boulevard; 314-725-6565. Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. daily (limited menu till 3 a.m.)

Virginia peanut soup $3.25
Four-cheese pizza $8
Barbecue chicken pizza $8
Filet $22

Then again, if you're ordering food at the Delmar after 10 p.m., especially once the other bars have closed, the cops start making security passes through the place and you have to guard your seat with your life, questions of cuisine probably aren't on your mind. You're there for one last round or one last shot at not going home alone or to forestall for another couple of hours having to go home at all.

Whether you don't want to go home or whether you're like me, a metaphysical mess who wants a bite to eat, the Delmar is there for you, at least until three in the morning. Hemingway — a guy in a lonely place if ever there was one — probably said it best: "[I]t is probably only insomnia. Many must have it."

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