Park West Grille puts Benton Park West on the culinary map.

Here comes the neighborhood!

When I went back a few days later, the restaurant was busier and the kitchen seemed to be struggling to keep up. We waited a while for our appetizers and another while for our entrées. Our servers were friendly, dropping by often to top off our water and take drink orders from a wine list very modest in scope, size and price (the most expensive bottle is $30). Beer is available only in bottles, with the list dominated by macrobrews.

We began with an order of bruschetta strongly flavored with tapenade and also split an appetizer of small shrimp dry-rubbed with jerk seasoning, topped with a dab of a mango barbecue sauce and served on fried plantain slices. As with the duck's purported tamarind glaze, I couldn't taste much jerk seasoning on the shrimp, which made the dish more reminiscent of a shrimp cocktail, only served hot.

The entrées were better. Strip steak, a substantial fourteen-ounce cut cooked (at my request) on the rare side of medium-rare, bore lovely grill markings — black and deep — and while the steak itself wasn't an extraordinary cut, it was quite good. Pan-seared chicken was even better, the skin crisp, the meat tender and nearly as flavorful as a roasted bird.

Head West: This new spot brings light and warmth (and smashed potatoes) to an up-and-coming part of town.
Robert Boston
Head West: This new spot brings light and warmth (and smashed potatoes) to an up-and-coming part of town.

Location Info

Map

Park West Grille

2917 S. Jefferson Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Clayton

Details

Park West Grille
2917 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-773-7275. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Bar open 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 5 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Sat.)

Bruschetta $6
Pan-seared chicken $17
Muscovy duck breast $18
Strip steak (14 ounces) $22

The chicken was served with smashed potatoes. The steak was served with Gorgonzola smashed potatoes.

I rescind what I wrote before: There is a universal definition of comfort food, and it is smashed potatoes.

Have a suggestion for a restaurant the Riverfront Times should review? E-mail ian.froeb@riverfronttimes.com.

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