By Mabel Suen
By Jessica Lussenhop
By Joseph Hess
By Evan C. Jones
By Ian Froeb
By Mabel Suen
By Jessica Lussenhop
By Ian Froeb
Is Lucas Park Grille still hip, a hot spot, the place to see and be seen downtown? Was it ever? I don't know. Frankly, I don't care. But I can tell you a meal there on Saturday night is as close to dinner theater as I ever wish to be, a hundred little scenes of the human need to blow off steam and maybe get lucky and how easily this need can be frustrated.
1234 Washington Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63103
Category: Bars and Clubs
Region: St. Louis - Washington Avenue
Foie gras $15
Ahi tuna $26
Wagyu rib eye $40
A bride-to-be, resplendent in white, wearing a tiara and waving a magic wand, hops up on a table and does a little jig. A dozen or so young women, giggling, stumble outside to wait for their ride; a half-hour later they're still waiting, one of them talking frantically into her cell phone. Now and again, a middle-aged man with a bottle of beer wanders a lazy circle around the main room, stopping each time to stare at the women waiting outside.
I could go on. To summarize: Lucas Park Grille is a spectacle. Remove all the people and it would still be a spectacle, a soaring, dramatically underlit space with flat-screen TV sets and fireplaces, a semi-open kitchen and even a small market. (The market is open only during the daytime. At night it's closed off behind a sort of cage, an unfortunate design feature: Is this where bad diners are sent?)
With so many distractions, I was shocked to find myself thinking about the food on my plate as often as I did.
McGowan Brothers Development, better known for its many downtown loft properties, opened Lucas Park Grille in the heart of the Washington Avenue loft district two and a half years ago. When my predecessor, Rose Martelli, reviewed the restaurant in January 2005, she was impressed by the décor "sumptuous and sleek," she described it, and it seems to have held up well but not by executive chef Kevin Willmann's food.
"If patrons are expected to...pay high-end prices, the fare has to live up to the table it's served upon," Martelli wrote.
The prices remain high-end. Dinner for two with drinks and a tip will likely cost you about $100, even if you split an appetizer and dessert. But since last year the head chef has been Jason Bayle, a 34-year-old veteran of several area kitchens, including Harvest, the Crossing and, most recently, An American Place. Willmann has moved on to Erato in Edwardsville.
I learned of this change only when, on a whim, I looked up Lucas Park Grille's current menu on the restaurant's Web site. But it was the menu itself that grabbed my attention. Bayle was pairing seared foie gras with toasted marshmallows an unlikely, intriguing couple. And he was serving what the Web site described as a "Kobe beef ribeye" steak.
This was reason enough to visit. To simplify, Kobe beef or wagyu, as the cattle are called in Japan has such incredible marbling that the best cuts can command hundreds of dollars per pound. Only wagyu from Japan's Hyogo Prefecture is considered true Kobe beef; wagyu raised domestically is sometimes referred to as American Kobe beef. You don't often encounter either at St. Louis restaurants.
Still, I approached Lucas Park Grille warily. Foie gras with toasted marshmallows and Kobe beef could be culinary revelations, but they could just as easily be bait for diners who enjoy conspicuous consumption.
I made my first visit on a quiet weekday evening. A trial run: I sat at the bar and ordered the pork entrée, a grilled pork steak and a homemade "pig in a blanket" with braised red cabbage and a vegetable tart. The thin pork steak had been overcooked, but the "pig in a blanket" a small, plump sausage partly wrapped in a flaky pastry shell was cute and tasty, with a strong flavor of fennel. But the standout was the vegetable tart, with very thinly sliced carrots and onions layered in a pastry crust, the vegetables just tender enough to fuse together without being mushy, just sweet enough to contrast the savory pork and the vinegary cabbage.
That dish is no longer on the menu, but it was enough to compel me to return and try the foie gras, the Kobe beef rib eye and another surprise a roasted saddle of venison in a juniper poivradethickened with raisins. The lean, juicy meat had a deeply savory smack (the sauce is three days in the making, Bayle told me, and the bones for the sauce are marinated for four days beforehand), and a side of Brussels sprouts roasted with pancetta lent the entrée the crisp, bittersweet edge of the woods in winter. Seared ahi tuna was also lovely, with brilliant, dark pink flesh and a clean, sweet flavor. The tuna comes with a sauce of preserved lemon, garlic and herbs, but this was so unobtrusive, or the pieces of tuna so large, that I didn't notice it.
I wish Bayle had shown that light touch with the cornmeal-encrusted halibut dish I tried. The halibut was served with mushrooms, truffled gnocchi, cipollini onions glazed with balsamic vinegar, pine nuts and a green-apple vinaigrette. The individual elements were just OK the gnocchi were mushy, and the halibut, while succulent, was too salty but nothing worked in concert.
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