Goblet Up!

Webster Groves gets a wine bar. Will Ian drink to that?

Those more entrée-like dishes were hit-or-miss. A single roasted chicken breast had crisp skin and tender meat; a thin apple-riesling reduction provided an accent of sweetness. The menu description of the dish mentioned pancetta, but I tasted none. On the other hand, the menu should have mentioned that the chardonnay-infused shrimp with wasabi were served cold. The shrimp were decent specimens; unsurprisingly, the wasabi flavor was much stronger than the chardonnay.

Herb-encrusted salmon was really a salmon fillet seasoned, not "encrusted," with herbs. This was a nice piece of fish cooked half a minute too long, hinting at the unpleasant taste of overcooked salmon. A portion of flatiron steak in a cabernet jus was tender, but the meat's flavor was lost in the jus, which bore a generically beefy, slightly bitter flavor, like canned beef broth.

Desserts include the usual suspects: flourless chocolate cake, carrot cake, crème brûlée. The carrot cake was average, the cake itself decent but the topping too heavy on whipped cream, too light on cream cheese. The crème brûlée offered an interesting twist, with three small custards — your standard vanilla along with chocolate and pear-anise — rather than one. I liked the chocolate best; the pear-anise offered a welcome departure from the standard version, though its pear flavor was rather faint.

Drink by number: Robust pairs its sharing dishes with an eclectic offering of wine.
Jennifer Silverberg
Drink by number: Robust pairs its sharing dishes with an eclectic offering of wine.

Location Info

Map

Robust

227 W. Lockwood Ave.
Webster Groves, MO 63119

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Webster Groves

Details

Cana de cabra...$4.50
Chowder...$5.00
Sausage flatbread...$9.00
Roasted chicken...$11.00
227 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves; 314-963-0033. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. (Bar open till midnight Mon.-Thu., till 1 a.m. Fri.-Sat.)

If Robust's menu as a whole doesn't vary too much from standard wine-bar offerings, that's not necessarily a bad thing. This is food meant to be shared, a component of an evening out, like good company and good conversation. The wine is what brings it all together. Which is what my T-shirt would say.

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