Center Cut

Jim Edmonds' days with the Cardinals might be numbered, but F15teen's a keeper.

Of the non-steak entrées I tried, roasted cod with mushrooms in a Gruyère broth stood out for its elegant balancing act. The mushrooms gave the mild fish a depth of flavor and the Gruyère added a piquant note, but neither overwhelmed the natural flavor of the cod. A ten-ounce, bone-in pork chop grilled to a juicy medium, offered the same meaty satisfaction as the steaks. No surprise, then, that it's listed among the steaks.

In true steak-house style, sides are offered à la carte. Our server told us the kitchen wants to make dishes healthy, when possible, so the "creamy corn" is kernels of corn served in puréed corn. No cream, no butter. The dish was tasty, if not luxuriously so. I couldn't say the same for the mac & cheese. Best were the mashed potatoes. Should the kitchen claim these were made without butter or cream, don't believe them.

The wine list offers a wide selection, though you have to read carefully to find bargains. The by-the-glass list, though small, highlights a specific wine (a Côtes du Rhone when I was there) with detailed information on the grower and vineyard.

F15teen, Jim Edmond's downtown steak house, really steps up to the plate.
Robert Boston
F15teen, Jim Edmond's downtown steak house, really steps up to the plate.

Location Info

Map

Jim Edmonds Space 15

1900 Locust St.
St. Louis, MO 63103

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Downtown

Details

F15teen
Onion soup...$5
Pork chop...$16
Strip steak...$32
Ice cream sandwiches $4
1900 Locust Street; 314-588-8899. Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tue.- Fri. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue-Sat. (Light menu available 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Lounge open 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Tue.-Sat., 8 p.m.-3 a.m. Sun.)

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Desserts might be the product of mad genius. And I didn't even try the chocolate shake with Cocoa Puffs. A brownie topped with molten fudge and vanilla ice cream, served with a shot of hot chocolate spiked with Baileys on the side, was a wonderfully over-the-top indulgence. But the masterpiece is the trio of house-made ice-cream sandwiches: oatmeal cookies with pumpkin ice cream, chocolate-chunk cookies with gooey-butter-cake ice cream and ginger snaps with caramel ice cream. These aren't bite-size, either. Each is a whole damn ice-cream sandwich. And you get three. The ice cream and cookies are delicious, the pairings brilliant, especially the pumpkin-oatmeal.

Reservations are a must. And you might want to stop by sooner rather than later. Once baseball returns, even Joe Buck might have to wait for a table.

Have a suggestion for a restaurant the Riverfront Times should review?
E-mail ian.froeb@riverfronttimes.com.

For more about food and St. Louis restaurants, visit Gut Check: blogs.riverfronttimes.com/gutcheck.
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