The restaurant's mole poblano (available in several dishes) is excellent, the sauce's chocolate character assertive but not overwhelming. The chocolate flavor fades into a blend of warming spices that was welcome on a cold afternoon. For a blast of heat, I recommend camarones a la diabla: a dozen medium-size shrimp in a blistering árbol salsa. Seriously: The menu notes the dish with two chile peppers, but three or four might be more accurate. At any rate, I dug the salsa (though I kept pilfering my friend's guacamole for burn relief), and the shrimp had been cooked perfectly.

My favorite dish might have been the tortilla soup, a bowl of brick-red broth teeming with shredded chicken, melted cheese and slowly dissolving tortilla strips. The broth was spicy with a clear citrus note, tart but not puckering. I'd ordered it to complement a plate of tacos, but I found myself ignoring the tacos for another spoonful of the wonderfully warming soup.

Sea here: Salvador Zavala delivers a plate of oysters on the half shell.
Sea here: Salvador Zavala delivers a plate of oysters on the half shell.

Location Info


Taqueria Los Tarascos

4444 Woodson Road
North St. Louis County, MO 63134

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: North St. Louis County


Taqueria los Tarascos
Tacos (each)...$1.65
Tortilla soup...$3.99
Camarones a la diabla...$12.95
4438 Woodson Road, Woodson Terrace; 314-890-8668.
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.

It's the kind of thing Mom would have made to combat the sniffles on a frigid winter afternoon. I know living in Mexico is a pipe dream, at best. Still, sitting in Taqueria los Tarascos with a bowl of tortilla soup, it's nice to imagine. And the airport is just down the road.

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