Both steaks were very good, cooked precisely to my medium-rare order and then rested an appropriate length of time. The rib eye (an eighteen-ounce, bone-in whopper) was especially flavorful. Neither was perfect, though. The New York strip had a thin streak of gristle near one edge, while the exterior on the rib eye was rather lightly browned, robbing it of both texture and — despite its rich beefy flavor — the added depth of a good char.

Sleek offers a broad selection of meat, poultry and seafood entrées, and the kitchen thoughtfully features a tasting menu for vegetarians. For my out-of-steak experience I opted for the lamb chops. The two double-boned chops showcased excellent grilling technique, with a crisp, but not burnt, exterior and a tender, full-flavored interior. The quality of the meat was key because, as with the steaks, the chops were served with only a decorative sachet of herbs and a swirl of jus.

The à la carte sides were underwhelming. The French fries were pale and flavorless, and the steamed asparagus had been peeled all the way up to the tip, rendering it unbecomingly limp. I did like the spinach, fresh and simply sautéed. The mac & cheese has a creamy rather than cheesy texture, with diced ham adding some chew, while the flavor is utterly dominated by truffle oil and a few bits of black truffle. It was so decadent that I couldn't eat more than half.

So Sleek: Lumière Place's steak house.
Jennifer Silverberg
So Sleek: Lumière Place's steak house.

Location Info

Map

Sleek

999 N. 2nd St.
St. Louis, MO 63102

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Riverfront

Details

Sleek
Duo of tuna...$14
Lamb chops...$38
Rib eye...$46
Mac & cheese...$8
999 North Second Street (in Lumière Place); 314-621-9590.
Hours: 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-10 p.m. Sun.

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Desserts run the gamut from chocolate soufflé and cheesecake to Coca-Cola sorbet. I liked the light, refreshing frozen Grand Marnier soufflé. I really liked the peanut-butter cheesecake, but this was removed from the menu between my first and second visits.

The wine list is very long, peppered with extravagant splurges and decent values, the latter especially evident in a brief list of half-bottles. The by-the-glass selection is lame, and the draft beer selection even more so.

I departed Sleek satisfied on the most basic level. It's a steak house, after all. The food is good and filling. If my palate was comforted rather than challenged, at least I didn't fret that the chef's creation would fail or that I'd regret my order.

For a restaurant in a casino, Sleek is a damn safe bet.

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