Quack Addict: Let nothing come between Ian and his duck-fat frites

Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Wednesday, Jul 16 2008

I tried two of the four large plates. The "Meat & Bone" is beef filet served alongside a marrow bone and a few roasted root vegetables. The name conjures up images of Fred Flintstone chowing down on a dinosaur steak, and the bone, at least, lives up to the hype. It towers over the rest of the plate, with enough buttery marrow to spread on the steak with some left over for a slice or two of bread. The filet, though, is small. I don't mind restrained meat portions; if you do, consider yourself forewarned. At any rate, it's a good cut of meat, and the kitchen amps up its richness by poaching it in butter before grilling it. The root vegetables seemed more for decoration than consumption.

The fish preparation follows the market. On my visit it was trout stuffed with spinach, served over couscous with raisins and almonds. This was a simple dish, prepared well, the trout sautéed to a golden crisp, the spinach flavorful and not at all wilted.

Jennifer Silverberg

Shaved Duck pastry chef Wes Johnson serves a tangle of duck-fat frites.

Location Info

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The Shaved Duck

2900 Virginia Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

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Details

The Shaved Duck
Duck fat frites...$6
Duck confit...$10
Scallop-wrapped bacon...$11
"Meat & Bone"...$17

2900 Virginia Avenue
314-776-1407.
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Sat. (Bar open till 12:30 a.m.)

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Simplicity is the watchword here. The dishes aren't extravagant — except, perhaps, in richness. (Seriously: Order "Meat & Bone" and the frites on the same visit at your own risk.) The food is prepared well and appealing, and depending on your mood, the restaurant as a whole can feel like a neighborhood spot or like destination dining.

I'm lucky enough to live within walking distance. Which is especially good, since I'll need to work off all that duck fat.

If it walks like a duck and talks like a blowhard, it's probably me.