As is commonplace these days, Ki's menu balances nigiri sushi with rolls both familiar and exotic. The specialty rolls come courtesy of executive sushi chef Nanda Nyunt, who has logged time at Miso and the Drunken Fish. (Ki is owned by brothers Anthony, Tim and William Phung, who also own Egg-Roll Kitchen.) Though I greatly prefer more traditional sushi to specialty rolls, I did like those I tried here.

A "Mediterranean Zeus Roll" had cucumber and salmon inside the roll; the roll's exterior features shrimp and shiso, an herb related to basil and mint. The contrast in textures between the exterior and interior was excellent, and I especially liked the shiso's verdant note. The connection between the roll's name and its contents, though, is lost on me. The "Strawberry Sweet Roll," on the other hand, is straightforward: an interior of shrimp and avocado and, on top, sliced strawberries and bright red roe. I might have added a hint of heat to balance the sweetness, but I enjoyed this more than I thought I would.

Ki Sushi's nigiri sushi is fine, if not exceptional. The rice was underseasoned, and none of the fish I tried — salmon, yellowtail and maguro tuna — crossed that hazy line from pleasant to revelatory. That said, it was all generally satisfying. Only an order of unagi disappointed, the grilled eel dressed with far too much barbecue sauce.

On a roll: Sushi chef Joon Kim creates a dish from Mizu's expansive menu.
Jennifer Silverberg
On a roll: Sushi chef Joon Kim creates a dish from Mizu's expansive menu.

Location Info

Map

Ki Sushi

2436 Taylor Road
Wildwood, MO 63040

Category: Restaurant > Sushi

Region: Wildwood

Mizu 1013 Washington Avenue; 314-621-2646.
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Ki Sushi 2436 Taylor Road, Wildwood; 636-273-5599.
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Dinner 4-9 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 4-9:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun.)

Is Ki worth the drive to Wildwood? Maybe not, when compared to some of my favorite sushi restaurants. But it would be just as fair to ask whether most St. Louis sushi joints are worth the drive from Wildwood. If there were more suburban strip-mall restaurants like Ki, there might just be hope for us yet.

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