White redeemed himself with the "Tap Room Burger," which managed to be juicy and deeply flavored despite being made with ground sirloin instead of chuck. It comes with white cheddar and housemade pickles on the world's most underrated burger vehicle, an English muffin.

The burger is one of several sandwiches on the new menu. The beef brisket, smoked in-house, is very tender and served with a stout jus that deepens its already full flavor. My only complaint is that the brisket should be better trimmed: I had to separate thick strips of unctuous fat from each slice on the sandwich. The standout sandwich pairs fried eggs and sliced ham with rocket-spiced mayo. It's the ultimate breakfast sandwich, ample enough to serve as lunch or dinner.

I shouldn't overstate the Tap Room's transformation. Even the word "transformation" is too strong. The space is unchanged: dark, loud and — if you're too close to the bar — smoky. Service can be spotty, especially at dinner. But for a restaurant that could have stayed as it was indefinitely, or at least until Schlafly stops turning out great beers, it's heartening to see this old favorite revitalized.

The Schlafly Tap Room has new dishes brewing with the arrival of chef Andy White.
Jennifer Silverberg
The Schlafly Tap Room has new dishes brewing with the arrival of chef Andy White.

Location Info

Map

Schlafly Tap Room

2100 Locust St.
St. Louis, MO 63103

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: St. Louis - Downtown

Details

Schlafly Tap Room
Pissaladière...$8
Fried egg and ham sandwich...$8
Rock hen...$13
Crab boil...$17
2100 Locust Street; 314-241-2337.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Tue., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Wed.-Thu., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., noon-10 p.m. Sun. (Bar open till 10 p.m. Sun.-Tue., till 1 a.m. Wed.-Sat.)

After all, now that Schlafly is the biggest American-owned brewery in St. Louis, people are going to expect more. 

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