Crust Achin': Ian ventures forth in search of the good pizza and finds the Good Pie

One day, when I'm an old, retired restaurant critic, as fat as a zeppelin and hobbled by gout, I'll throw the grandkids into the hovercar and take them on a tour of St. Louis pizza past. I'll show them the mixed martial arts arena where the first Imo's once stood and the Francis Slay Spaceport atop the Hill. We'll pay our respects at the memorial to the victims of the Provel Riots of 2041, after President Chelsea Clinton banned processed cheese. And then, just when the little ankle biters start whining about how this is the most boring thing ever and I'm so hungry, I'll point the 'car toward the Albert Pujols Expressway and say, with an avuncular chuckle, "You kids are lucky to have been born in the 21st century."

"Because we can live on the moon?"

"Because a clone can be elected president?"

A focused menu and quality ingredients make for a Good Pie.
Jennifer Silverberg
A focused menu and quality ingredients make for a Good Pie.

Location Info

Map

The Good Pie

6665 Delmar Boulevard
University City, MO 63130

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Delmar/ The Loop

Details

RFT Slide Show

View a slide show of the Good Pie.

The Good Pie
Salami pizza...$10
"Mast'nicola"...$11
"Atina"...$16
3137 Olive Street; 314-289-9391.
Hours: 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun.)

"Because we cured cancer?"

"No, no, no." (I hope, by then, to have learned patience.) "Because you can get a decent pizza right here in your hometown."

I pray that future generations of St. Louisans can take good pizza for granted. For now, though, I'll continue to bang the drum whenever a decent joint opens. Last year was an especially fruitful one, as we welcomed Katie's Pizzeria Café, Onesto and Pi — with Pi drawing high praise from none other than then-candidate Barack Obama.

To that list you can add the Good Pie, which opened in December in midtown, just east of the intersection of Olive Street and North Compton Avenue. The location is as humble as the name: a tinted storefront next to a tanning salon. But you shouldn't overlook this pizzeria, where a wood-burning oven imported from Italy bakes damn good Neapolitan-style pies.

I say "Neapolitan-style" instead of Neapolitan because only the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana can certify that a pizza is truly Neapolitan, and having already ticked off every Provel-loving St. Louisan with the opening paragraph of this review, I don't want any global bureaucracies riding my butt, too.

In fact, the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana mandates everything from the kind of oven (wood-burning) to temperature (800 degrees Fahrenheit) to work surface (marble). In terms of what you, the diner, sees, the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana limits what can top your pizza to San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella (either cow or buffalo milk) and fresh basil.

What distinguishes Neapolitan-style pizza is a very thin crust (though with a rim or lip) cooked in a wood-burning oven at a very high temperature for a very, very brief period of time. I didn't have a stopwatch when I visited the Good Pie, but I'd guess the cooks kept each pizza in the oven for no more than two minutes.

The wood-burning oven stands toward the back of the Good Pie's single room. One or two cooks work in a small prep area immediately in front of it. (A second prep kitchen is hidden behind the small bar.) In front of the oven area and the bar is seating for maybe two dozen. Exposed brick walls and wood tables give the space the casual ambiance of a neighborhood joint; actual vintage bicycles hung on the walls add a distinctive touch.

The menu is brief and, with the exception of a few salads and antipasti, devoted entirely to pizza. There are ten different pizzas — all are twelve inches, more than adequate for most diners — as well as daily specials; prices range from $8 for the "Marinara" (tomato, garlic and oregano) to $16 for a pie with prosciutto and Grana Padano. For $4 you can add mozzarella di bufala to any pizza; its depth of flavor is greater, but not distractingly so.

The key to any Neapolitan pizza is the quality of its crust, and at its best, the Good Pie's is very good: Crisp on the bottom, and even dotted here and there with char, but with an ever-so-tender chew and a pleasant, mild sour note. Occasionally the char has a stronger influence than you'd like, and on one pizza that I tried — sausage and roasted peppers with mozzarella — much of the crust was soggy with oil.

Because nearly a dozen different pizzas are available, you can safely assume that the Good Pie's toppings venture beyond tomato, mozzarella and basil. Because Neapolitan-style pizzas cook so quickly, these toppings have been previously cooked — roasted red peppers and mushrooms — or require little (or no) additional cooking to be enjoyed, like the tissue paper-thin sheets of prosciutto draped atop the "Atina" pizza. This looks like nothing so much as a prosciutto pancake, but the pizza is more subtle than it appears. A scattering of roasted mushrooms and thinly shaved Grana Padano cheese add toasty and nutty notes to the ham, while the light, freshly made tomato sauce adds sweetness and a touch of acid.

Pork gluttons might also consider the "Mast'nicola," which includes a generous amount of chopped pancetta along with grated Pecorino Romano and a few fresh basil leaves. There is no tomato sauce on this pie, but the pancetta, by turns crisp and fatty, has an unctuous enough quality that you won't miss it.

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