For those craving something more traditional, a classic pizza margherita is available, while a pie with thinly sliced Genoa salami is a tastier sibling of a good ol'-fashioned pepperoni pizza. The only combination that doesn't work at all features olives, capers and white anchovies; the result is one step removed from a salt lick.

The wine list is short but was put together with more care than you find at most pizza joints: There's a good range of Italian varietals, and while there are a few pricey bottles, most are affordable. Only a few beers are offered, but they're local and good, like the O'Fallon 5-Day IPA and Smoked Porter.

Service is St. Louis-standard, which is to say friendly but scattered. Someone cheerily implores you to sit wherever you want as soon as you walk in the door, but the open tables aren't always cleaned off. One busy Saturday lunch service found only a single server working, and she couldn't process credit-card payments. Diners had to wait for the cook to finish making a pizza to have their cards run.

A focused menu and quality ingredients make for a Good Pie.
Jennifer Silverberg
A focused menu and quality ingredients make for a Good Pie.

Location Info

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The Good Pie

6665 Delmar Boulevard
University City, MO 63130

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Delmar/ The Loop

Details

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The Good Pie
Salami pizza...$10
"Mast'nicola"...$11
"Atina"...$16
3137 Olive Street; 314-289-9391.
Hours: 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Closed Sun.)

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One other drawback — though this is hardly the fault of the restaurant — is that parking is less than ideal, with meters along both sides of Olive and no off-street spots of which I'm aware. I mention this only to encourage those intrigued by the Good Pie but put off by the realities of city living to bring change for the meters or walk the extra block or two from a side street.

I can only hope that I will have to explain to my grandkids what a parking meter is. And Provel.

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