The "Brewery Burger" is straightforward: nine ounces of ground beef formed into an evenly shaped patty. My burger was juicy, its beefy flavor on the mild side. The freshly cut French fries that accompanied the burger needed to be crisper.

Calling this the "Brewery Burger" is innocuous by itself but suggests the fundamental problem with Mattingly's menu: It has nothing to do with beer. The menu doesn't make any pairing suggestions, and while certain dishes like grilled steak kebabs obviously go well with something like the 1984 Golden Ale, others like grilled salmon or the pasta primavera do not. That pasta primavera, served in my case with sautéed shrimp, benefits from an abundance of spinach, portobello mushrooms and sun-dried tomato, but then drowns it in much too much butter and olive oil.

Despite what I wrote above, you can order one brewpub staple: fish and chips. The cod is served in small pieces, its breading much thicker — and the finished result much greasier — than the fried calamari. The fish is served atop the French fries, but between the two were very small pieces of fried batter.

St. Louis chalks up another fine brewpub.
Jennifer Silverberg
St. Louis chalks up another fine brewpub.

Location Info

Map

Mattingly Brewing Company

3000 S. Jefferson Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - Clayton

Details

Back of the House

Go into the kitchen and basement where Mattingly's beer is brewed in our slide show.

Mattingly Brewing Co.
Beer (pint)...$4
Fried calamari...$7.95
Burger...$6.95
Pepperoni pizza (large)...$13.45
3000 South Jefferson Avenue; 314-881-1500.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. (Bar open till 1:30 a.m. daily.)

"Crunchies," my wife calls them. These might seem tasty after you've knocked back half a dozen Blue Moons. But when the beer is as good as Mattingly's, you just wonder what they're doing there.

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