Quack Quack: The Shaved Duck reinvented — and hotter than before

Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Wednesday, Apr 15 2009

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Two flatbreads brought very different results. One with pulled pork, apple, white cheddar and bacon was a nice twist on barbecue pizza, balancing complementary flavors on a crisp, light crust. The second drowned that crust, duck confit and caramelized onions in too much of a too-strong horseradish cream. Even with the excess blotted, the flavors didn't mesh well.

As I mentioned, you can still order the duck-fat frites, though I'd swear they aren't quite as tasty as I remembered. They weren't piping hot when they arrived at the table, so the flavor of the fat had lost some of its appeal. You can also order half of a roasted duck. This looks just fantastic on the plate, the crisp skin a deep, deep golden brown, but my portion needed more seasoning. This comes with two rather plain dipping sauces, one hoisin, the other pineapple-mustard.

Jennifer Silverberg

Even in the pouring rain, executive chef Kat Kobylarek must tend to the smoker.

Location Info

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The Shaved Duck

2900 Virginia Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

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Back of the House

Go into the kitchen through our slide show.

The Shaved Duck
Chili sampler...$6.99
Pulled-pork flatbread...$8.99
St. Louis-style spare ribs (half order)...$9.95
Roasted half duck...$14.99

2900 Virginia Avenue; 314-776-1407.
Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Sat. Brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. (Bar open till 12:30 a.m. Tue.-Sat.)

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The beer selection remains strong, though in a place that prides itself on said selection, a list of suggested pairings would be a nice touch. Service was more scattered than I recalled, with longer-than-expected waits for drinks.

It's difficult to compare the original Shaved Duck to its second iteration — the two menus are so drastically different. Frankly, I preferred the cuisine of the original, but I still find the space charming, the food both good and a good value. And I'm thrilled that the place is evidently thriving: Weekends are crammed, and a Tuesday visit found me waiting for a table. Like the bhut jolokia chili, I just want a little more heat from something so hot.