Two flatbreads brought very different results. One with pulled pork, apple, white cheddar and bacon was a nice twist on barbecue pizza, balancing complementary flavors on a crisp, light crust. The second drowned that crust, duck confit and caramelized onions in too much of a too-strong horseradish cream. Even with the excess blotted, the flavors didn't mesh well.

As I mentioned, you can still order the duck-fat frites, though I'd swear they aren't quite as tasty as I remembered. They weren't piping hot when they arrived at the table, so the flavor of the fat had lost some of its appeal. You can also order half of a roasted duck. This looks just fantastic on the plate, the crisp skin a deep, deep golden brown, but my portion needed more seasoning. This comes with two rather plain dipping sauces, one hoisin, the other pineapple-mustard.

The beer selection remains strong, though in a place that prides itself on said selection, a list of suggested pairings would be a nice touch. Service was more scattered than I recalled, with longer-than-expected waits for drinks.

Even in the pouring rain, executive chef Kat Kobylarek must tend to the smoker.
Jennifer Silverberg
Even in the pouring rain, executive chef Kat Kobylarek must tend to the smoker.

Location Info

Map

The Shaved Duck

2900 Virginia Ave.
St. Louis, MO 63118

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: St. Louis - South City

Details

Back of the House

Go into the kitchen through our slide show.

The Shaved Duck
Chili sampler...$6.99
Pulled-pork flatbread...$8.99
St. Louis-style spare ribs (half order)...$9.95
Roasted half duck...$14.99
2900 Virginia Avenue; 314-776-1407.
Hours: Dinner 5-10 p.m. Tue.-Sat. Brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun. (Bar open till 12:30 a.m. Tue.-Sat.)

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It's difficult to compare the original Shaved Duck to its second iteration — the two menus are so drastically different. Frankly, I preferred the cuisine of the original, but I still find the space charming, the food both good and a good value. And I'm thrilled that the place is evidently thriving: Weekends are crammed, and a Tuesday visit found me waiting for a table. Like the bhut jolokia chili, I just want a little more heat from something so hot.

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