A Chip Off the Old Chuy: This ain't your father's Chuy Arzola's. Or is it?

Comments (0) By Ian Froeb Wednesday, Aug 12 2009

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Jennifer Silverberg

Chuy and Coby Arzola carry on the family name to new digs in the Central West End.

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Chuy Arzola's

3701 Lindell Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63108

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: St. Louis - Midtown

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Slide Show

Slide Show: Go inside the new Chuy Arzola's and see a step-by-step creation of the "Austin" combo platter.

Chuy Arzola's
Roasted pork tacos (3)...$7.29
"Texas Tornado"...$8.50
Enchiladas suizas...$9.29
Beef fajitas (with peppers and onions)...$12.58

3701 Lindell Boulevard; 314-644-4430.
Hours: Lunch/Dinner 2-9 p.m. Sun., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Wed., 11 a.m.-midnight Thu.-Sat.
Brunch 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun.

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Perhaps the most representative dish at Chuy Arzola's is the "Austin," one of the combo platters. This is two thin "crispy chicken burritos" (read: flautas or taquitos) topped with queso and a scoop of guacamole, with pico de gallo on the side. On one hand this is damn satisfying at the most primal level: The burritos are crisp, the chicken is tender, the cheese and guac round out the flavor, and the pico de gallo adds a welcome jalapeño punch. On the other hand, these are the same predictable pleasure points too many restaurants of every stripe aim for, a cuisine best captured by those Taco Bell ads that trumpet "melty, cheesy" foods.

Of course, there's no arguing that melty and cheesy sells: You had to wait in line during the final week of the original Chuy Arzola's existence, and the lunch crowd at the new location was generally bigger than the draw at most of the places I've visited recently. It's tough to knock a restaurant owner for hitting the sweet spot.